No elevator, however the walk up was not as bad as we thought once we were doing it (3 days worth). One room did have some smoke odor. Not sure if it was from outside or someone had smoked in there before. No other part of the home had the smell. Otherwise, no complaints from us.
Massimo, the proprietor, was fantastic. I felt like I was at home with a relative. The rooms were clean and well appointed (antique-looking furniture perfect for the locale). The location was perfect - we were in a small courtyard (nothing special about the courtyard) but as soon as you came around the corner you entered onto the main, narrow road that is the center of town. Loads of activity, people walking at all hours, like a 15 hour "passigiata"! If you want to know what it feels like to "live" in the town (not stay in a hotel as a tourist) this is a good place for you. If you are looking for 5-star treatment (room service, resaurant, etc) don't go here. But you will miss out on truely living Italian if you go to a hotel.