Safed / Tzfat is known to be a somewhat quirky place.
Safed / Tzfat is known to be a somewhat quirky place. Each of the 4 primary Jewish holy cities is associated with an element (fire, earth, water and air) - Tzfat is associated with air, and that is apt, in terms of its mystical allure and the population that can draw.
Tzfat is a beautiful historic little city perched on a mountain side, and facing Mount Meiron. It has beautiful historic synagogues that are worth seeing, the historic cemetery where important figures in kabbalah and 16th century Judaism are buried (kabbalists' grave stones painted in shades of blue), and the ruin of a Mamluk (late medieval) mosque / khan, as well as the more recently constructed 19th century Ottoman Saraya (administrative palace).
For kids, the many staircases are both fun and something of a challenge.
The city center (together with the old city) has cafes, ice cream, pizza, and several other restaurants. There is a cheese place in the old city (Kadosh; Tzefat-style cheese is a less salty kind of fresh white cheese that is sold throughout Israel "gvinah tzfatit"), and also a winery but I don't know it as well. The wider region is well known for wineries though.